Enjoying the Ultimate Japanese Wine Pairing at Gaienmae's JULIA

Located in Gaienmae, JULIA has been popular among foodies as a hard-to-book restaurant since its days in Ebisu prior to relocating.
It was a place I had bookmarked for some time, but rather than a widely famous spot known to everyone, it felt more like a hidden gem favored by my gourmet friends and acquaintances.
From their firsthand stories and social media posts, I saw glowing reviews such as "the slider is exquisite" and "you can enjoy the ultimate wine pairing," which piqued my interest even more.

When I heard that, starting last November, all of their wine pairings would feature Japanese wine, my expectations grew even higher, and I paid them a visit right away.
Here is my report on this renowned "ultimate pairing experience."

JULIA's menu consists solely of an omakase course for ¥22,000 (including beverage pairing).
The menu changes monthly, allowing guests to enjoy dishes made with seasonal ingredients.
Furthermore, the restaurant insists on sourcing most of these ingredients from the owner's hometown of Ibaraki Prefecture and Okinawa Prefecture, a region close to their heart.
Each dish is then paired with Japanese wine.

My visit was in February.
There were 11 dishes in total,
accompanied by 11 paired glasses of wine.

Now, let's take a detailed look at what dishes were served and which wines were paired with them.

RESPECT FOR FARMERS&NATURE
Western-style chawanmushi using eggs from Tsukuba × Sparkling wine "Tako Chan" from Katashimo Winery in Osaka
The espuma resting atop the chawanmushi carries subtle herbal aromas like rosemary, which seem to bridge beautifully with the bright sweet-and-sour notes of the sparkling Delaware.
This combination really whets the appetite!

HALFBEAK
The halfbeak (sayori) was served with a citrus and yogurt sauce accompanied by fennel.
It was paired with "Albariño" from Fermier in Niigata Prefecture.
Made in Kakudahama on the Niigata Wine Coast, this mineral-driven wine is rich with aromas reminiscent of white peach and apricot, with lively acidity.
Because of this, I was initially worried it might bring out any fishiness in the halfbeak, but the yogurt sauce masked it beautifully, making for a delicious combination.
Furthermore, thanks to the citrus and fennel, the wine's refreshing acidity felt even more buoyant and expressive.

SHIITAKE
Baked pie filled with shiitake mushrooms from Shirosato Town, served with mushroom dashi broth, paired with "Pinot Noir" from Hiroshima Prefecture's Miyoshi TOMOE series.
I wondered if it was a bit early in the meal to bring out a Pinot, but this Miyoshi Pinot Noir, with its subtle savory dashi-like quality, is indeed a perfect match for mushrooms.
Even before the dish reached the table, the delicious aroma of shiitake filled the restaurant, making me sip my Pinot Noir even faster.

CUTLASS FISH
Grilled cutlassfish served with petit vert, drizzled with balsamic vinegar, and accompanied by a butterbur sprout (fukinotou) sauce.
Paired with Shion Winery's rosé "Himawari" from Yamanashi Prefecture.
The vivid green sauce and the charming pink rosé look like spring itself! It's truly exciting. (Though the wine label already says summer!)
It is wonderful how the wine's subtle sweetness harmonizes in the mouth with the bitterness of the spring vegetables.

GROUPER
This month’s fish is longtooth grouper! It was served with black cabbage and an accent of yuzu miso.
The level of heat applied to the flesh showcased the firm bite stemming from the grouper's freshness, and the crispy texture of the skin was simply wonderful.
While anyone can grill fish at home, encountering cooking like this—which draws out the absolute best based on the condition of the ingredients—makes me appreciate anew the value of paying for professional culinary creations.
This dish was paired with "Kazama Koshu" from Yamanashi Prefecture's Kai Winery.
It is a Koshu that gently complements the delicate flavor of the grouper. The yuzu miso also felt like a wonderful bridge between them.

OKUKUJI-SHAMO
Okukuji Shamo gamecock, which has previously taken top honors in competitions.
I enjoyed three roasted cuts—thigh, breast, and tenderloin—served with a whisky sauce.
The cooking degree here was also flawless, with thoughtful technique applied to each distinct cut.
The meat had a delightful resilience to the bite, making it truly delicious!
The wine was "Unité" from Usagida Winery in Chichibu, Saitama Prefecture.
A red wine aged in whisky barrels. Pairing it with Shamo chicken in whisky sauce is such a stylish combination.
The accompanying burdock root, cooked in a sweet-and-savory kinpira style, subtly echoed the flavor of red wine and looked equally stylish.
It was clearly a world apart from the kinpira burdock I make at home. Naturally so.

FARMER’S ARTWORKS
Slowly roasted turnip served with a sauce made from turnip greens.
Serving a dish after the main course to simply enjoy the natural sweetness of turnip—what a gentle presentation.
It was served alongside an orange wine from Iwasaki Brewery in Katsunuma, Yamanashi Prefecture: "Antique Koshu Kamoshi."
As I ate, I discovered orange peel hidden beneath the turnip, which enhanced the apricot-like aroma of the orange wine and made it even more delicious.

SLIDER
Ah, this is the one! It is JULIA's famous dish.
The wine served with it was "Overdrive Oak" from Bee's Knees Vineyards in Tsukuba City, Ibaraki Prefecture.
To be honest, I fully expected this wine to be served alongside the main meat course, so the timing was a bit surprising.
However, once I took a bite of the slider, the sauce had a rich, punchy flavor. Ah, I see—it makes total sense why a Rhône-style blend was paired here.
The combination of sweet and savory barbecue pork simmered for three days and Okukuji apples offers a fun texture and is absolutely delicious!
Even the small bun is house-made using whole wheat flour from Ushiku City, Ibaraki Prefecture. It's so addictive that you'll want to eat another one.

NEW YORK CHEESECAKE
Surprisingly, paired with the cheesecake ice cream was sake!
Having sake for dessert was unexpected, but come to think of it, I sometimes pair sake with rich, flavorful cheeses high in amino acids, and there are even washed-rind cheeses whose rinds are washed with sake during aging.

TOFU
I was really intrigued by this dish, wondering what "tofu for dessert" would be like.
It turned out to be a mousse made of tofu and white chocolate, salt ice cream made with salt from Hamahiga Island in Okinawa Prefecture, and a mitarashi jelly.
I found that mixing it lightly before eating made it especially delicious.
This dish was paired with a fortified wine made from Muscat Bailey A and brandy from Soryu Winery in Yamanashi Prefecture.
Tofu and brandy?! This was another surprising combination, but against the mildly sweet tofu and the bold salt ice cream, the pleasantly sweet and tart brandy acted like a sauce, creating a refined, adult dessert.

CURTAIN CALL
To finish, truffle chocolates and coffee were served with a Japanese-style presentation.
Taking a moment to relax, I reflected deeply on the day's dishes and wines.

A wine pairing across all 11 courses.
Lately, I have found it physically challenging to finish a full-course French meal, so I was honestly a bit worried about the portion sizes. In the end, however, everything was delicious right to the last bite, leaving me feeling wonderfully satisfied.

The course featured plenty of vegetables and dishes prepared to bring out the natural flavors of each ingredient. It was a delight to see how Japanese wine played such a wonderful role—sometimes complementing, sometimes balancing, and sometimes adding an accent to the food. I truly enjoyed a "supreme pairing," just as its reputation promised.

The space in which to enjoy all of this is also important, of course.
With only 10 counter seats, the chic, black-themed interior is stylish and full of atmosphere.
From the seats, guests can watch Chef NAO expertly butcher the Shamo chicken and slowly drizzle the sauces, making the wait for each dish enjoyable in itself.
Furthermore, sommelier Motohashi's gestures—such as taking Cutipol cutlery out of a stylish case to set the table each time—exuded an elegance reminiscent of being presented with fine jewelry at Graff or Harry Winston.

I felt that the food, wine, and space (service) all came together to create the ultimate "supreme pairing experience."

JULIA changes its ingredients and menu every month.
I would love to experience it again in the next season.

【JULIA】
https://www.cardenas.co.jp/shop/family/julia/